ANALYZING AND REPAIRING LEAKS

Window replacement is not always the best option when leaks appear.  In many cases, removal and replacement will cause new aesthetic problems, which the vehicle owner may not be satisfied with.  Things to check for:

 

   (A) Is the window properly closed?

       Sliding window latches usually include an interlock so that the 

           sliding pane and the mullion fit together tightly.  If either is

           bowed away from the other, the parts may by-pass, 

           precluding a tight seal.  Pushing outward when sliding the 

           window closed can check this.  If the vent stops earlier than

           it had previously, the seal has probably been restored.

           Often, the bowed part can be gently bent back into the 

           proper position.

       Torque or awning windows may not seal for a variety of

           reasons: If the operator knob is stripped or cracked, the

           panes will not close fully. The vent seals are subject to

           deterioration over time. Replacing them, if indicated, will

           improve vent closure. Most vents have an adjustment 

           feature.  If the vent has “triangular” pivot brackets, be sure

           that the bottom adjustment hole is used.  This will tighten

           the vent closure.

 

  (B) Can the water evacuate?  Most sliding windows have a sloped

        sill (which will channel any water present outbound) and weep

        or drain holes (to permit the water to flow out.)  These holes

        are usually baffled or otherwise disguised on the inside to

        minimize wind noise or “blow-back” in strong winds. Often,

        dirt or manufacturing debris will accumulate over time,

        blocking the drain, so that water cannot escape.  To fix this

        condition: from outside the window, unsnap the weep hole

        covers, if present, but keep them handy for reuse.  Use a stiff

        wire to probe into the weep hole, and scrape out anything 

        blocking the sill. When you are sure that the area is clear,

        reinstall any weep slot covers.

 

(B)Where is the water entering? A process of elimination can be 

     used to isolate the leak. Using duct tape, cover all suspected

     points of entry for water.  If the leak persists, the water is 

     entering elsewhere.  If the leak stops, isolate the leak by

     removing one piece of tape at a time until the leak

     reappears.  Depending on the leak source, various strategies

     can be employed, such as caulking, re-bedding, vinyl

     replacement etc.

 

(C) Is the window installed correctly?  Radius windows are usually

     installed with an inside clamp ring. This part is screwed

     together with the window frame, clamping the wall between

     them. The clamp rings vary, depending on the wall thickness

     specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle. This wall

     thickness must accommodate the actual wall materials, plus

     whatever sealant is used under the outside window flange. If

     the clamp ring used is too thick, the window will not clamp

     tightly to the wall. When this happens, the flange seal can be

     easily breached and a leak occurs. If the window flange is not

     snug to the sealant around the outside, and the clamp ring

     not snug to the inner wall, you should order a replacement

     clamp ring.  In general, a clamp ring is better if slightly too

     thin for the wall, rather than too thick.

 

     (D)Air leaks and wind noise: Unless the window also leaks water,

         wind noise should not be assumed to be a true leak. Excessive

         interior noise may be a function of vehicular design. A

         contributing factor can be the shape and placement of

         outside accessories such as mirrors.  Replacement of the

         window will not affect wind noise when this case applies.